sildenafil citrate 100mg buy

Skip to content

Scandinavia 2015: Stockholm and Copenhagen, Part Three

Day 5: The Vasa, Canals of Stockholm and Oaxen Slip.

Now that there are more tourists in Stockholm, it is essential that we get to the major sights bright and early.  The Vasa Museum was the only one we needed to see.  Even though this was my third trip to the museum, the ship is still amazing.  We left the museum as buses of tourists began to arrive.  Whew.

Vasa Museum.

Vasa Museum.

We then walked along the harbor to catch the Under the Bridges of Stockholm boat tour.  This one was alright.  I would recommend the Royal Canal Tour, or even the Archipelago Tour.  If you wanted to see Lake Mälaren, then I would take the Under the Bridges tour.  In any case, one boat tour is essential to see Stockholm from the water.

Canal cruise.

Canal cruise.

Stockholm canal tour.

Stockholm canal tour.

Hötorget station.

Hötorget station.

After the boat tour this is when the shopping began.  Went to Granit (home goods), Sandqvist (bags), Haglöfs (sporting goods) just to name a few.  Let’s just say it was a very good day for shopping.

Granit.

Granit.

Sandqvist.

Sandqvist.

We ended up having the drag our shopping bags over to Oaxen Slip, the bistro restaurant of Oaxen Krog, which is a Michelin-starred restaurant.  We were seated outside with a view of Beckholmen at sunset.  Couldn’t have been better.

Dinner at Oaxen Slip.

Dinner at Oaxen Slip.

Dinner at Oaxen Slip.

Dinner at Oaxen Slip.

Summer sunset.

Summer sunset.

Oaxen Slip
Beckholmsvägen 26, 115 21 Stockholm

 

Day 6: City Hall climb, Library, fika and more shopping.

Morning sun over Gamla Stan.

Morning sun over Gamla Stan.

The one thing I really wanted to do again is the climb up city hall, so that I could get a good photo of Gamla Stan (old town).  The last time I was in Stockholm was in chilly February, when the tower was closed for the season, so I was not about to miss this one.  We went in the morning to get tickets to climb, but realized that the last climb at 5:15pm would be the best time as the sun would be in the perfect spot.  After getting the tickets, we went off to Odenplan to see the public library.

The Stockholm Public Library (Stockholms stadsbibliotek) was designed by Gunnar Asplund, and opened in 1928.  The rotunda part of the library was the place we wanted to see, and it was amazing.  It’s a three-story set of shelves with books in different languages.  We had to walk through it twice just to make sure we get a little taste of it.

Stockholm Public Library.

Stockholm Public Library.

Stockholm Public Library.

Stockholm Public Library.

Waiting for a train.

Waiting for a train.

We then headed to Södermalm for a little walk, but the main thing was to get to the food stand at Slussen for some herring.  I just can’t seem to get enough of this stuff.  Then it was back to Kungsgatan for a little fika at Vete-Katten‘s courtyard with lots of sweets, before heading to City Hall for that climb.

Fried herring.

Fried herring.

Strömmingvagnen at Slussen.

Strömmingvagnen at Slussen.

Fika at Vete-Katten.

Fika at Vete-Katten.

The climb was actually disappointing.  The reason for that was when I first climbed in 2001, we were not “caged” in and could really take in the view of Gamla Stan and all around city hall – freely.  Now that we are behind bars, it’s not as exciting anymore.  The view was still worthy of photos, except I had to get the lens outside so I could get an unobstructed view of Gamla Stan.

View of Gamla Stan from City Hall Tower.

View of Gamla Stan from City Hall Tower.

The evening ended with a visit to the wonderful ICEBAR Stockholm at the Nordic C Hotel, by the folks who created the original ICEHOTEL up in Swedish Lapland.  Makes me want to get back there soon!

Vodka in ice cups at ICEBAR.

Vodka in ice cups at ICEBAR.

ICEBAR Stockholm.

ICEBAR Stockholm.

Stockholm Public Library
Odengatan 63, 113 50 Stockholm

Vete-Katten
Kungsgatan 55, Stockholm

ICEBAR Stockholm (at the Nordic C Hotel)
Vasaplan 4, Stockholm

 

Disclosure: we were provided discounted hotel rates, and free Stockholm Cards for transportation inside Stockholm, including the boat tour.  ICEBAR entry was also provided.  There was no obligation to write a story.

Scandinavia 2015: Stockholm and Copenhagen, Part Two

Day 3: Room 606, Shopping and Good Eats.

We started the day out with a tour of our hotel.  As I said in an earlier post, this was the first boutique hotel in the world.  Designed by Danish architect and designer Arne Jacobsen, this hotel was the place to stay when it opened in 1960.  The hotel kept Room 606 (aka the Arne Jacobsen Suite) exactly as it was when the hotel opened its doors, and one can book the room to stay – but at a steep price.  Architecture students from all over Denmark visit the room as part of their education.

Room 606 at the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen.

Room 606 at the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen.

This was my second visit to the room; however, I continued to learn more about Mr Jacobsen and his designs.  For instance, the vanity was originally designed for his wife.  The Drop Chairs in the room – there were only 200 of these produced for the hotel – until Fritz Hansen re-introduced the chairs in 2014.

The best part of the visit was to the rooftop of the hotel.  According to the folks at Fritz Hansen, this was where Arne Jacobsen went when he needed time to think.  I was very fortunate to have the opportunity to stand there as well, and with a spectacular view of Copenhagen.  This was truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Rooftop view from the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen.

Rooftop view from the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen.

We then wasted no time and headed over to Frederiksberg to the Royal Copenhagen outlet.  I ended up with some ice tongs and some other random knicknacks.

Spoons designed by Arne Jacobsen.

Spoons designed by Arne Jacobsen.

Then it’s time to eat!  Lunch was at the Torvehallerne KBH (KBH being the Danish acronym for Copenhagen) where I had some Danish hot dog with fresh squeezed juice (I did notice there was a lot of fresh juices all over the city).

Lunch at Palæo.

Lunch at Palæo.

Torvehallerne Food Hall.

Torvehallerne Food Hall.

After lunch it was time to walk it all off with a walk over to HAY House, which is right off the Strøget, a pedestrian walking street (and supposedly the longest pedestrian walking street in all of Europe).   As you can see, some wonderful designs that you’d want to bring home – all of it!  You also get a great view of the beautiful square right in front of the store.

Hay House, Copenhagen.

Hay House, Copenhagen.

Hay Mini Market.

Hay Mini Market.

Looking out from Hay House.

Looking out from Hay House.

The day ended with a great dinner at Bror.  After getting the 7-course meal the night before, we opted for the much smaller menu for the evening, and it was the right choice.

Restaurant Bror.

Restaurant Bror.

Dinner at Bror.

Dinner at Bror.

Dinner at Bror.

Dinner at Bror.

Actually, the day really ended with a trip to Tivoli, complete with fireworks.

LIghts at Tivoli.

LIghts at Tivoli.

LIghts at Tivoli.

LIghts at Tivoli.

Royal Copenhagen/Georg Jensen Outlet
Søndre Fasanvej 9, 2000 Frederiksberg

Torvehallerne KBH
Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København

Hay House
2. – 3., Østergade 61, 1100 København

Restaurant Bror
Sankt Peders Stræde 24A, 1453 København

Day 4: Christiania, Church Climbs, Smørrebrød and a little Hygge.

Christiania.

Christiania.

The day started out with a walk into Christiania, the self-proclaimed freetown of Copenhagen.  This area of Copenhagen was formerly the military barracks, and was then occupied in 1971.  The main street, Pusher Street, still deals in cannabis trade and photography is not allowed (as it is illegal).  Walking through the area you could smell the weed almost immediately.  Didn’t feel exactly comfortable so we left quickly.

We then headed next door to the Church of our Saviour, which (ironically) is almost next door to Christiania, famous for the stairs that surround the spire at the top of the church.  Climbed it.  Boy was it high up…  but the view of Copenhagen from the east is quite a nice one too.

View of Copenhagen from the spires of the Church of our Saviour.

View of Copenhagen from the spires of the Church of our Saviour.

View of Copenhagen from the spires of the Church of our Saviour.

View of Copenhagen from the spires of the Church of our Saviour.

Øresund bridge in the distance.

Øresund bridge in the distance.

After all that it was time for lunch at Aamanns for some smørrebrød, the Danish open-faced sandwich.  It’s a work of art, isn’t it?

Smørrebrød from Aamanns.

Smørrebrød from Aamanns.

Dessert.

Dessert.

Then (sadly), it was time to leave wonderful Copenhagen for awesome Stockholm.  Before that though, we did visit the Royal Smushi Cafe (smushi: a cross between sushi and smørrebrød) for a little mini hygge before heading to the train station.

Time to leave for Stockholm.

Time to leave for Stockholm.

Aamanns Etablissement
Øster Farimagsgade 12, 2100 København Ø
+45 3555 3310

Royal Smushi Cafe
Amagertorv 6, 1160 København
+45 33 12 11 22

 

Scandinavia 2015: Stockholm and Copenhagen, Part One

Months ago, when I saw an awesome deal to Europe in August, I didn’t even hesitate (it was just under $600!) and pressed the “buy” button on the screen.  The plan for this trip was to go to Copenhagen and Stockholm, two of my favorite cities.  I first visited both cities in 2001, but have since then returned to both cities, and this will be my third time in Copenhagen and fourth in Stockholm.

Copenhagen and Stockholm

Copenhagen and Stockholm

Why Copenhagen and Stockholm?

There is still so much about Scandinavian (and Nordic if you include Finland and Iceland) culture, especially their philosophy on design that continues to fascinate me.  With most of the touristy spots out of the way, I now have the opportunity to explore the cities a bit more – perhaps turn a different corner here and there – to find new things to be excited about.

The Planning.

There were three of us, and we had six days available to us between the two cities.  The only things I know I wanted to do were:

  • Visit Fritz Hansen, a well-known furniture manufacturer just outside Copenhagen.
  • Eat well in Copenhagen.
  • Go to a flea market and check out the furniture.
  • Go to Tivoli.
  • Visit Room 606 (again) at the Royal Hotel in Copenhagen.
  • Climb the tower of Stockholm City Hall (again) now that I have DSLR.
  • Visit the ICEBAR Stockholm.

I had most of these things planned before departure and off we went.

Day 1: Day Trip to Stockholm and onto Copenhagen.

The day started with landing at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, and a quick bus ride (45 minutes) later, we were at the Central Bus Terminal in Stockholm.  The station had undergone extensive renovation and looks nothing like it did before.  For those who want to store their luggage, there are plenty of huge lockers available right at the station.

Stockholm Central Station.

Stockholm Central Station.

The first thing was to find something to eat.  We walked along Drottninggatan, a pedestrian shopping street, to Hötorgshallen where there is a food hall and market.  I got some Rådjursfärsbiff, which was reindeer patty (sorry Rudolf!) with mashed potatoes and lingonberries for 120 kronor (US$14).  It was de-lish.

Drottinggatan, Stockholm.

Drottinggatan pedestrian shopping street, Stockholm.

Lunch.

Lunch.

We then walked along and caught a canal tour of Stockholm, which was something wonderful to do on a gorgeous day (and a great way to relax a bit after such a long flight from California).  It also gave me a quick review of Stockholm city so that I can plan the next thing to do.

Canal tour in Stockholm.

Canal tour in Stockholm.

After the canal tour, we ended up at Biblioteksgatan, and the 8 streets around it form the fashion district of Bibliotekstan with international luxury boutiques as well as Swedish fashion.  With that we ended up at Cafe Koloni for some fika and people watching.  And there was no lacking of beautiful people everywhere.

Biblioteksgatan.

Biblioteksgatan.

Arcades along Biblioteksgatan.

Arcades along Biblioteksgatan.

Then it was time to go off to Copenhagen.  We were off on a late-afternoon one-hour flight and landed at Kastrup Airport (with an awesome view of the city center at landing), and checked-in at the first boutique hotel in the world, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel (formerly known as the SAS Royal Hotel).  Dinner was an expensive US$9 juice at Joe and the Juice with a US$10 sandwich.

View of Copenhagen at landing.

View of Copenhagen at landing.

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen.

Day 2: Design and Food in Copenhagen.

Fritz Hansen offices.

Fritz Hansen offices.

The morning began with a tour of Fritz Hansen just outside of Copenhagen (you can read more by clicking on the link on my design blog at DesignsWeLove).  After the tour we were supposed to end up at the Fritz Hansen showroom, but the cab driver circled around for probably 20 minutes and I told him it was time to give up.  We were dropped off at the nearest train station at Nordhavn, where we took the train for one more stop to Østerport to see the Little Mermaid.

Ant chairs by Arne Jacobsen.

Ant chairs by Arne Jacobsen.

Tourists, everywhere.

It was very difficult walking in such heat that we quickly left and headed for Nyhavn for a canal tour for a little rest.  It indeed was (again) and awesome tour, this being my third.  At 80 DKK (US$12), it’s a bargain.  From there we were walking to Kongens Nytorv and on the way ran into the Craft Art Fair for Copenhagen Art Week.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen.

Next thing you know it was dinnertime at Relæ, named as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, at number 45 (The French Laundry is #50).  It was a small restaurant, and the restaurant was not seated at full capacity.  We were seated at a community table even with reservations, and the rest of the long table was never occupied while we were there.  Food wasn’t too bad, but I had expected much more.

Restaurant Relæ, Copenhagen.

Restaurant Relæ, Copenhagen.

Celeriac (Celery roots) with seaweed and black olives.

Celeriac (Celery roots) with seaweed and black olives.

Grilled onion, samphire and hollandaise sauce.

Grilled onion, samphire and hollandaise sauce.

Fermented milk ice cream with rapeseeds and warm raspberries.

Fermented milk ice cream with rapeseeds and warm raspberries.

The walk back was quite a nice one, as Jægersborggade is a nice street to be walking on.

Just before getting back to the hotel we visited Irma, the local supermarket and yeah, we were quite mesemerized by the packaging.

Selection of jams at Irma.

Selection of jams at Irma.

 

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel
Hammerichsgade 1, 1611 København
+45 33 426000

Restaurant Relæ
Jægersborggade 41, 2200, København N
+45 3696 6609

 

 

 

Japan: Sendai, Aomori, Niigata and Tokyo.

I’ve been to Japan quite a few times; however, my trips have mostly been to large cities such as Tokyo and Osaka (but mostly Tokyo).  This time, I changed things up a bit and decided to venture north of Tokyo to places I’ve never been to before, so here goes…

Day 1.  It’s more like evening one.  I landed in Tokyo in the early evening, and quickly dashed (I really ran from the last possible gate through immigration and customs) to the Japan Rail (JR) counter to buy my JR East Rail Pass and get my reservation for the Shinkansen bullet train to Sendai.  Somehow all the stars were aligned for me that evening and I was on the 1.5 hour ride on the E5 Series “Hayabusa” train to Sendai to meet up with a friend.

Hayabusa Shinkansen Train

After arriving in Sendai it was time for a late dinner.  The region is well-known for its beef tongue, so we went to a great restaurant and had a few orders of those.  The meat was so tender you would not believe.

Beef tongue

Day 2.  We were off to Aomori, which is basically the northernmost (large) city on the main island of Honshu.  Why?  Well, we had seen a video clip of a place that served tuna (maguro) in a very bizarre way.  So we figured we’d give it a try – and the train pass gave us the incentive to do it.  We took the morning E5 Series “Hayabusa” over to Shin-Aomori station (which is a new station built for the bullet trains), and then had to transfer over to Aomori, THEN take another train over to Asamushi-Onsen to get to the restaurant.  Now this last train is called the “Aoimori Railway” and is very cute, haha.

Aoimori Railway

Finally we arrived at the restaurant and I ordered the “small” tuna bowl, and here it was – a MOUNTAIN FULL OF TUNA.  It really took me almost 30 (or maybe it was 40) minutes before I could finish it.  It was a true challenge.

Small tuna bowl

After making our way back to the station, we then headed to Hachinohe, which I had mistakenly thought had good food around the station, but that proved to be negative.  We ended up walking around and then returned to Sendai for the evening, and had some wonderful Botan-ebi.  Apparently I was lucky to have selected one with eggs.  Yum.Botan ebi
Day 3. It was time to part with my friend and onto the solo portion of my trip over to the western side of Japan, specifically to the city of Niigata.  I have never been to the city so I figured I’d check it out (there wasn’t much research done in the first place, but I figured I’d see the Sea of Japan for the first time).

On the way to Niigata, I was reading about a small town called Murakami, which had old streets with well-preserved buildings.  Once I got to the station I went to the information counter and asked about it, and I decided to change course.  On top of that, the woman at the information counter suggested that I go to the station “Kuwasawa” to see the Sea of Japan up close.  Minutes later, I was off again on *yet* another train, this time the “Inaho”.Inaho train

On the way to Murakami you could see rice fields.  Niigata (the prefecture) is known to have the best rice in Japan due to the water supply.Niigata rice fields

 

Murakami did not disappoint.  It was definitely a wonderful stroll in old town, and I spent 30 minutes talking with a shop owner who apparently was also a town historian, and learned much about the town.  One of the most interesting pieces of information I learned is that the cultural influence of the town was actually from Kyoto.  Building after building told the stories of the past, including signage that dates back a bit.

Murakami buildingsMurakami buildings

 

Murakami is actually known for its salmon.  So you could see salmon hanging from storefronts.

Murakami salmon

 

After Murakami I took another 30 minute local train over to Kuwasawa for a brief stop to see the Sea of Japan.  I’ve never been to this side of Japan before so I was a bit curious.  I wasn’t disappointed.  The only thing was that I didn’t have time to see the sunset.  More for next time I guess.

Sea of Japan from Kuwasawa

Sea of Japan drive

Now it’s time to head back.  The evening was planned at Echigo-Yuzawa, which is usually known as a ski resort, but also its hot springs.  I took the double-decker Max Toki train and I was there so fast I didn’t even get to enjoy the train ride.

Max Toki Trains

The dinner.  Well.  It was a-mazing.  Everything was made from local ingredients and it was 8 courses.  I’ll just talk about a few.  Let’s begin with asparagus soup with tofu.

Asparagus soup and tofu

 

Some tempura and then some grilled sea bream (honestly I don’t even know what “bream” was).

Tempura

Sea bream

After dinner, I retreated to my room for some R&R and to digest a bit, before heading upstairs to the hot springs.  Let’s just say the hot springs is a bit too hot for me.  I know its therapeutic value, but it’s so difficult for me to stay inside for more than 10 minutes.  It was relaxing though while it lasted.

Day 4.  It was time to get back to the big city, but not before I get some breakfast and then take in the sights of the Yuzawa valley via a gondola ride.
Breakfast

 

As you can see the view is absolutely gorgeous.

Yuzawa valley

Yuzawa valley

 

Then in less than two hours, I was in Tokyo and at the end of my trip.  It was all about walking and relaxing at cafes such as this one before hopping on my plane home.
Tokyo cafes

 

Until next time…

 

 

36 Hours in Santiago

Over the last few years, I have had this new fascination for South America.  My first visit to the continent was back in 2010 to Buenos Aires, and the desire to return has only heightened since.

A little over a month ago a friend of mine saw this amazing fare to Santiago that was under $1,000, and asked me whether I wanted to go.  I wasn’t so sure so I took a few days to think about it, and the fare was gone.  About a week later, an even better fare became available, and at that point I was ready.  It was going to be a weekend trip, and next thing you know we’re off.

Day 1.  We took the redeye down to Santiago, and landed with a view of the sunrise over the Andes.  It was something we’ve read in textbooks, but seeing the mountain range just below you was breathtaking.  After landing we quickly passed through immigration and customs, and got into a van with a company called Transvip for 23,000 CLP (about US$38), and we were at our hotel in 20 minutes.

Santiago Chile cityscape

While waiting for our hotel room to be ready, we were invited to have breakfast at the restaurant, and had an awesome view of the city, which included the Gran Torre Santiago, the tallest building in Latin America, along with the Andes as the backdrop.  As Chile is a long and narrow country, the mountain range is only a little over an hour from the city to the east, as is the Pacific Ocean to the west.

Santiago Metro

After freshening up a bit, we were off to the city center via metro.  The metro system is efficient and clean.  We walked along the Ahumada pedestrian street to the Plaza de Armas, the main central square of the city, featuring the Cathedral as well as museums and more.

Plaza de Armas

Upon walking further we ended up at the Mercado Central (central market), which is a cast-iron building that houses seafood stalls and restaurants.  We ended up at a restaurant called El Galeón, which was recommended by the hotel concierge.  The food was good but a bit pricey, with exception to the erizos (sea urchin, or uni).  It was basically $15 for a plate-full…

Mercado Central Santiago Chile
Mercado Central Santiago Chile

Now that we are stuffed with food, we decided to walk to the foot of San Cristóbal Hill via the Parque Forestal and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, or the National Fine Arts Museum.  It was basically autumn, and we were able to enjoy some of the foliage along the way.

Parque Forestal Santiago Chile

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

As we were approaching San Cristóbal Hill, we passed by the district of Bellavista, which is the bohemian part of town known for its colorful buildings and trendy restaurants and cafes.  Pablo Neruda, Chile’s most famous poet (and Nobel Literature Prize winner), also lived here.

Bellvista

The last portion of the walk along Pio Nono toward the foot of the hill wasn’t all that exciting.  There were bars and restaurants that were just a bit too much for me.  Upon finally reaching the foot of the hill, we purchased tickets for the funicular up for a view of the city, and the Virgin Mary statue at the top of the hill.

View from San Cristobal hill
View from San Cristobal hill

Day 2.  We checked out of the hotel in the morning and headed out for brunch in Las Condes at a place called Coquinaria, inside the W Hotel.  The Chilean sandwich was a very simple serving but good.  I just couldn’t figure out what the sweet gelatin thing was.

Chilean sandwich breakfast

Now that we’re stuffed (again) with food, we were off to the Concha y Toro winery out in the Maipo Valley, famous for its cabernet sauvignon.  It was an easy metro ride to the very last station of Line 4 – Plaza de Puente Alto.

After arriving, I remembered reading not to take just any taxi – but the ones that looked a certain way…  or so I had thought.  In any case, in less than 10 minutes we arrived at the winery.  We had booked our tours in advance, so we paid for our tours when we arrived (10,000 CLP, or US$16), and off we went!

Concha y toro vineyards

Concha y toro vineyards

We had a wonderful tour guide Barbara, who spent time explaining how it all works, from irrigation to climate and more. We were also invited to taste some of the grapes, which was awesome. After the one-hour tour, we ended up having a late lunch at the winery.

Lunch at Concha y toro

Now that we are stuffed (yet again), it was time to get back to the city and then the airport.  After arriving at the taxi stand just around the corner from the winery, we realized it was closed due to the holiday weekend.  We proceeded to walk across the road to the bus stop, trying to figure out which bus to take back to the metro station.  Thank goodness there was a woman who spoke some English (and along with our extremely broken Spanish), and she took us on our first bumpy Chilean bus ride, with Elvis blaring in the background.

Santiago bus

She literally took us by the hand to the metro station.  We had to give her a hug to say thank you.

As with all great things, it must come to an end.  It was time to go home.  We will be back soon Santiago – and the rest of Chile.  This place is full of wonderful people and we were fortunate to meet quite a few of them.

Santiago airport

 

 

Solo Travel: Berlin Day 3, Memorials and a Unified Germany

201409-holocaust1

Holocaust Memorial

201409-holocaust2

Holocaust Memorial

The morning started out on a somber note with a visit to the Holocaust Memorial, just around the corner of the Brandenburg Gate.  It was early in the morning, so I was the only tourist.  The site comprised of 2,711 concrete blocks that looked about the same height before entering, but then as you walked through you realize that the blocks are of different heights, and you were walking up and down slopes.  It was difficult to stay on the site for very long.  Inside the Tiergarten across the street were two other memorials that are lesser-known:  one for the homosexuals that were persecuted, and another for the Roma and Sinti.

After seeing the memorials I realized I was right next to the Reichstag (Parliament) Building, which is well-known for the dome designed by Norman Foster, so I went and asked about visiting the building.  I was lucky enough to get an evening slot at 9pm.  Whew.

I then walked through the Brandenburg Gate once more to catch the train to Nordbahnhof and see the Berlin Wall Memorial.  I had been there just the day before for breakfast – but on the opposite side of the station.  Inside the Nordbahnhof station were several panels that told the story of “Ghost Stations” or Geisterbahnhöfe, stations that were closed after the Berlin Wall was erected.  Nordbahnhof was one of such stations.  See a quick before and after video on YouTube.

Outside of the station was the Berlin Wall Memorial along Bernauer Straße, which was where a section of the Wall once stood.  This section of the wall was also where many amazing escapes took place when the wall went up in 1961.  As the street belonged in the West, those who lived in homes along the border were able to escape to the West by jumping out of their windows, or climbing down via a rope.  The GDR regime then sealed off the windows with bricks, and eventually demolished all of the border buildings and created what was called the “death strip” along with watchtowers and another wall, further dividing East and West Berlin.  I took my time walking alongside the wall, and then into the memorial, visiting each exhibit inside the grounds.  It was just difficult to image how a world can be so divided just like that for 28 years, and it came down as fast as it went up.  This November 9th will mark the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall, and there will be many events, including a “Balloon Action” event that involves the release of 8,000 balloons along a 15km stretch of where the wall once stood.

Stretch of the Berlin Wall along Bernauer Straße at the Berlin Wall Memorial.

Stretch of the Berlin Wall along Bernauer Straße at the Berlin Wall Memorial.

Two sides of the Berlin Wall:  the left was the East, the right was the West.

Two sides of the Berlin Wall: the left was the East, the right was the West.

Berlin Wall Memorial.

Berlin Wall Memorial.

I kept walking along Bernauer Straße and then across the way to climb up an observatory area where you can see a section of the Wall along with the watchtower and the inner wall – the enclosed area was called the “death strip”. Across the way was the Fernsehtrum (TV tower) and Alexanderplatz. Standing up there I kept thinking about how crazy it was to have a 156.4km (97-mile) enclosure all the way around West Berlin, complete with watchtowers and the death strip, and then the 138 or more people who died trying to escape.

Watchtower behind the inner wall.

Watchtower behind the inner wall.

Bird's eye view of the Berlin Wall with the watchtower and inner wall.

Bird’s eye view of the Berlin Wall with the watchtower and inner wall.

 After visiting the memorial, I walked to get lost in the East – just so I can see more of it.  I ended up at Rosenthaler Platz (which also had a U-Bahn station that was a ghost station as it was on the border), where I gave myself a bit of a break before heading (again) over to Alexanderplatz, and then over to Jannowitzbrücke station to take more photos along the Spree River.

Rosenthaler Platz station.

Rosenthaler Platz station.

Rosenthaler Platz station.

Rosenthaler Platz station.

I then headed towards the East Side Gallery, where the largest single stretch of the Berlin Wall still stands, and has been turned into – an open air gallery.

Then I hopped onto the trains again, stopping at random places, such as Hackescher Markt, a market square that is quite lively, with the Hackesche Höfe (courtyards) in the art nouveau style.  It was great getting lost in the city.

East Side Gallery.

East Side Gallery.

Hackescher Markt.

Hackescher Markt.

I had to head back to the hotel a bit to get some real rest before heading out again to catch the sunset over the Brandenburg Gate. I ended up catching the tail end of the sunset, and then headed over to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) for more photos, before heading to the Reichstag building for my tour, ending a very long day of walking (15+ miles).

Brandenburg Gate at sunset.

Brandenburg Gate at sunset.

View from the Museumsinsel.

View from the Museumsinsel.

Alexanderplatz at night.

Alexanderplatz at night.

Alexanderplatz at night.

Alexanderplatz at night.

Reichstag Building.

Reichstag Building.

Reichstag Building.

Reichstag Building.

Reichstag Building.

Reichstag Building.

Solo Travel: Berlin Day 2, Continuing Eastward

In my past visits to Berlin, I had never been to the Berlin Wall.  As the past visits were always about visiting family, we mainly stayed in the western part of the city, except just after reunification that we went to the Pergamon Museum in the East (or maybe I did see part of the wall…  but I just don’t recall).  This time around, I wanted to spend as much time in the East as possible.  So I started out with a big German breakfast at the Alpenstueck Bäckerei & Café in the Mitte district.  I got myself the Alpenstueck Breakfast I along with a Mutschel, which is a sweet roll that was super yummy.  It was the perfect way to start out the morning for 12,60€.

201409-alpenstueck1

Breakfast at the Alpenstueck Bäckerei & Café.

201409-alpenstueck3

Breakfast at the Alpenstueck Bäckerei & Café. This is the Mutschel.

201409-alpenstueck2

Breakfast at the Alpenstueck Bäckerei & Café.

After spending more time walking around, I took the train to Markthalle Neun, in the Kreuzberg district, within walking distance from the Görlitzer Bahnhof station.  The area felt like the Mission District of San Francisco.  Unfortunately most everything was closed in the market that day, except the supermarket and one restaurant.  I was already so tired so I had to sit down and enjoy a meal – and had a wonderful potato risotto with aubergines.  And the price?  8,50€.  For a capital city, Berlin is really affordable!

201409-markthalleneun1

Markthalle Neun from the outside.

201409-markthalleneun2

Markthalle Neun.

201409-markthalleneun3

Potato risotto with aubergine at Markthalle Neun.

From there I decided to walk along Friedrichstraße, which is a major shopping street, all the way down to the famous Checkpoint Charlie, which was an Allied checkpoint during the Cold War for crossings into East Berlin.  Sadly the place has become a major tourist trap, with tourists wanting to take photos with “fake” American soldiers.  Diagonally across was a Berlin Wall attraction where people had to pay; but right outside were panels that explained what led up to the building of the wall, which was quite interesting.  This was also when I discovered that the city had put in rows of cobblestones representing where the wall once stood.

201409-checkpointcharlie1

Checkpoint Charlie.

201409-checkpointcharlie2

Checkpoint Charlie, the tourist trap.

201409-berlinwall

Cobblestone marker of where the Berlin Wall once stood, at Checkpoint Charlie.

I then proceeded to walk to see a well-preserved section of the Berlin Wall, but then stumbled upon the Topography of Terror, which is an exhibition site that told the history of the Nazi Secret Police (Gestapo) – on the site where the headquarters once stood.  The section of the Wall was right outside the Topography of Terror, which was quite a sight.  I ran out of phone battery after I took this photo.

After a day’s worth of walking (12 miles), I was ready to give myself a rest.

Berlin Wall at the Topography of Terror, looking from West to East.

Berlin Wall at the Topography of Terror, looking from West to East.

Solo Travel: Berlin Day 1, Evening Walk to Alexanderplatz

It’s been quite a while since I’ve written a travel post.  This year has just been insane both personally and professionally; by July 1 I had already traveled more than 100,000 miles.  I’ve never traveled this much in my life.  Don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy it, but in doing so I have not had any time to write.  So here’s my first real travel post for 2014, and hopefully I will be able to go back and write about my trip to Australia earlier this year.  Here goes:

201409-berlin-tegel

Berlin Tegel Airport

If I remember correctly, Berlin was the first European city I visited with family back in the late seventies.  We were there to visit my uncle and his family.  It was wintertime, and all I could remember was snow everywhere.  We went back to visit twice in the 90s, and my last trip was in 2001.  For many reasons, this city holds a lot of meaning for our family.  I decided to visit Berlin this year as I wanted to walk down memory lane once more, but this time without my uncle, who passed away almost ten years ago.  I didn’t want to disturb my aunt, as she and my cousins had not been in touch with us, and we’ve never been close to them (not for any particular reason though).  So this trip would be my first opportunity to explore the city on my own.

I landed at Tegel airport after a tiring four flights (San Francisco-Houston-London-Frankfurt-Berlin, that’s a story for later), and the place seems to have stopped in time.  The airport departures and arrivals signage still had the flap display from as far back as I could remember.  There is a feeling of familiarity as I walked through the airport terminal to catch the bus to the Swissôtel Berlin on the Kurfürstendamm, or commonly known as the “Ku’damm”, which is the main thoroughfare in the western part of the city.  I settled into a comfortable room on the 8th floor with a wonderful view of the Ku’damm, and after resting a bit, I was determined to go for an evening walk – all the way to the Brandenburger Tor (Gate).

201409-berlin-swissotel1

Swissôtel Berlin.

201409-berlin-swissotel2

View from my room at the Swissôtel Berlin.

The walk didn’t take very long from the hotel to the Gate, it was just that I had to walk around the Tiergarten, which was pretty dark.  When I arrived, I was definitely in awe.  This famous German landmark was right before me, with the famous Unter den Linden just behind.  What I didn’t realize at the moment was that I was already standing in the former East Berlin, behind the Berlin Wall.  After taking a few more photos, I proceeded to walk toward the Fernsehtrum (TV tower), which is right around Alexanderplatz.

201409-berlin-brandenburgertor

Brandenburger Tor, Berlin

After arriving at Alexanderplatz, because it was already late in the evening, stores were already closed, and there wasn’t many people in the square – as the next day was a workday.  I didn’t linger for too long, and then decided to take the U-Bahn back to the hotel (and getting a bit lost in the process).

You’ll have to excuse the smartphone photos. I was too tired to carry my DSLR.

201409-berlin-alexanderplatz1

Fernsehtrum on Alexanderplatz, Berlin.

201409-berlin-alexanderplatz2

Fernsehtrum on Alexanderplatz, Berlin.

Some thoughts from a United frequent flyer.

United Mileage Plus Card

United Mileage Plus Card

This year has been especially busy for me, both personally and professionally, so I haven’t had time to write at all. As of today, June 30, I have flown more than 100,000 miles on United – and some more on other airlines, but not much.

While I was away earlier this month, United announced more changes to its popular Mileage Plus frequent flyer program. I have been a member since the 80s when the program first launched. I was a child back then, but was still excited at the idea of becoming a member of an airline I loved. I accrued every single mile that I had flown, and a few years ago, I hit the 1 million mark on United, and now am at just over 1.7 million lifetime United miles. I’ve been a 1K (100,000 mile) flyer for quite a few years in a row. You can say as both a leisure and business traveler, I have stayed loyal to United.

United was known for its service in the early days of “The Friendly Skies”. I remembered the smiles of flight attendants as I boarded planes, and just getting wonderful service. So even as other airlines had upped their service, had more comfortable seats, personal entertainment systems, lie-flat seats, or even newer planes – I stayed with United. One of those reasons was the frequent flyer program.

In recent years, especially after the United-Continental merger, things have begun to change. One change that affected elite flyers is the change in boarding process. All elites, with exception to Global Services, are now “lumped” into Group 1. I am finding myself in a long line of folks trying to board these days, especially on full flights. The “Premier 1K” that is on my boarding pass no longer means anything at the airport.

Over the past few years, Mileage Plus has implemented several significant changes that has affected the program, as follows:

Of course, the last draw came just earlier this month, when United announced that it will significantly reduce the number of miles you will earn when traveling on United. A 1K like me will get 11 miles per dollar spent, minus taxes – all of the elite bonuses will now go away. So a $650 ticket (minus taxes) spent for a 5,408 mile trip to Boston (obviously a pretty high fare) used to earn me 10,816 miles, now it will earn me 7,150. That is a 33.89% reduction. Supposed you paid only $300 for that same ticket, it will now earn me just 3,300 miles, which is a 69.49% reduction in miles. Don’t forget, this is the best-case scenario as I am a 1K.

This article by The Points Guy summed it all up pretty well – you’re definitely hosed. Oh yes, they did announce “new and exciting ways” to redeem your miles for free bags and Economy Plus seating (really?)… oh wait, that was a lame marketing spin. I really wouldn’t want to be in their Marketing/PR department right now.

So what does being a 1K really give you these days on United?

  • 6 Global Upgrades – but you will need to buy at a higher fare for a chance at getting the upgrades. These days the chances are pretty low.
  • No Fees for Changing Mileage Tickets – this is still a good one.
  • More Award Availability – yes, another good one.
  • Free Bags – seriously, many frequent flyers still do carry-on. not a great benefit.
  • Economy Plus Seating – okay this is a good one.

That’s really it. You no longer get better chances at scoring an “unlimited upgrade” – as there is now a complicated set of rules on fare purchased and elite status – without any transparency – so you’re basically screwed. You no longer get priority boarding, because you are now standing in a long line of 1Ks, Premier Platinums and First/Business class passengers. It used to be that Global Services and 1Ks actually boarded before first and business class.  Yes, I am biased because I earned the highest tier possible, minus the mysterious and complicated tier that is Global Services.

So what is really next for United? I really don’t know. When a program keeps changing its rules from year to year, it begins to lose passenger trust that the program will stay “as-is” for the foreseeable future. Because when we all sign-up for a program, that’s the expectation right? You wouldn’t sign up for a program that continues to devalue your benefits year after year, would you?

I did try to have a conversation on Twitter with @united.  However, they can only give me the canned response of “We’ll still have the best award availability & Premier status qualifications won’t change”.  Well, with less miles to redeem for awards, I am sure your availability will open up in the long term – then they will begin to cut availability to maintain a certain percentage as there will be less people redeeming down the road.

I am really hoping that another airline can step up and be different.  I had hoped that airline would be American, but they don’t offer many routes to Asia, so that makes things a bit difficult for me.  I am going to look at other airlines’ programs within Star Alliance and figure things out before December 31.

European Christmas Markets: Geneva

00120131210

This was the last stop for my trip, and it’s really to see a good friend of mine on my way home. Geneva to me is just a little (rich) town that’s basically stayed the same from the first time I went almost 20 years ago. The only thing I noticed is that Cornavin train station is finally getting a facelift – and those floors were slippery! The Chinese restaurant I dined at almost 20 years ago is still there. So are the many hotels, and all of the neon signage above buildings along Lake Geneva.

00220131210

00320131210

00520131210

It was Sunday and everything was closed. Well, I would say 99% of the shops and restaurants. Since I’ve been to the city many times, I’ve been to all of the touristy spots. I still walked around town quite a bit, from my hotel by Cornavin all the way into Old Town Geneva, and finally decided that I was going to take advantage of the free “Geneva Transport Card” that’s offered to all visitors – because public transport is just outrageously expensive. I decided to take line 12 all the way to Moillesulaz, on the Swiss-French border. It’s just one of the silly things I do whenever I have the opportunity. The tram only took 16 minutes from city center and I was at the end of the line at Moillesulaz. A big since that said “FRANCE” with a big arrow pointed at France, and people just walked over. After a little hesitation I did the same. There were more cafes and restaurants open, but nothing interesting. So I came back to Switzerland.

This is exactly when my friend pinged me and we ended up meeting by the lakeside and caught up.

It was sunset time so we took some great photos. It was just a beautiful day and you could see Mont-Blanc so why not?

As for Christmas markets, there’s not really much to speak of except a few stalls right by Cornavin train station. Even the lights were not that exactly exciting. But Geneva still has its lakeside charm that continues to be unique.

00620131210

00720131210

00820131210

00920131210

01020131210

01120131210

01220131210

01320131210

01420131210

01520131210

01620131210

01720131210

01820131210

01920131210